What Sandpaper Grit Should You Use on Wood?

Sandpaper numbers are simple once you know the rule: a lower number has larger abrasive particles and cuts faster. A higher number cuts more slowly and leaves finer scratches. The right starting point depends on what you need to remove, not on how smooth you want the final surface to feel.

40 to 60 grit: heavy removal

This range is for flattening rough stock, removing deep damage, or stripping a stubborn coating with a power sander. It can also change the shape of an edge faster than expected. Do not begin here just because the board feels rough. The deep scratches take time to remove later.

80 grit: leveling and early shaping

Eighty grit is a common starting point for rough lumber, old finish, and visible mill marks. It removes material quickly but is still manageable on a flat surface. Keep the sander moving and check edges often, since they disappear faster than the middle of a panel.

100 to 120 grit: general smoothing

This is a useful starting range for boards that are already fairly clean. It removes the scratches left by 80 grit and prepares the surface for finer sanding. Painted projects often need no aggressive sanding beyond this unless the old paint is failing.

150 to 180 grit: normal finish preparation

For many furniture projects, this is the practical stopping range before applying finish. The surface feels smooth, but it still accepts stain and film finishes well. End grain may need extra attention because it absorbs stain more heavily. Sanding end grain one step finer can help even the color.

220 grit and above: between coats and special cases

Bare wood rarely needs to be polished far beyond 220 grit. Very fine sanding can burnish the surface and reduce stain absorption. Higher grits are more useful for lightly smoothing a cured finish between coats. Follow the finish maker’s directions and remove all dust before recoating.

Do not skip too many steps

A sensible progression might be 80, 120, 180. Starting at 100 could lead to 150 and then 220. The exact sequence matters less than removing the scratches from the previous grit. Drawing light pencil lines across the surface gives you an easy check: when the lines disappear evenly, you have covered the area.

Sand with the grain at the end

Random-orbit sanders are efficient on broad faces, but the final hand-sanding pass should follow the grain. This removes small swirls that often appear only after stain is applied. Use a sanding block on flat parts so your fingers do not create shallow grooves.

Let the paper do the cutting

Extra pressure does not make sanding better. It creates heat, clogs the paper, and may leave pigtail marks from a power sander. Replace paper when it stops cutting. Vacuum the work and the sander’s pad between grits so one loose coarse particle does not scratch the newly smoothed surface.